Makalu Expedition
Makalu is the world’s fifth highest peak. Its height is 27,765 feet from the sea level. This beautiful mountain lies in the 14 miles east of Everest in the Khumbu region. The size of this splendid mountain is gorgeous and its pyramid-like structure with sharp four ridges has made it more spectacular. This peak is indeed a double peak. The subsidiary peak stands just north of the main summit which is linked by a saddle named Chomolonzo. The ridge of the summit has drawn the demarcation line indicating the boarder between Nepal and Tibet.
The name of this mountain is probably taken from a Sanskrit word Maha-kala which means a Shiva, one of the god of Hindu religion. Shiva is some times an evil, cruel destroyer and other times he is apt to be gentle and kind hearted. This mountain is also called Kumba Karna in a local dialect. It means the giant in fact.
Before its first ascent in 1955, several expedition teams studied and admired this peak. Nevertheless, it was not attempted until the first ascend of Mt. Everest in 1954. Other giant peaks in the Khumbu region were also not attempted till that time.
Makalu West Face
For climbing, this route is said to be very dangerous and risky. Five attempts were made before the successful climbing of this mountain. In fact, they succeed in the 5th attempt.
The Russian team led by Sergey Efimov climbed this summit successful first time in 1997. They climbed it through west face. They had climbed this peak through the most difficult route. The ending part of the route goes towards Parago ridge. Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline climbed Mt. Makalu and thus they were rewarded by the award “Gold ice axe.”
The routes are of 4 parts:
From the base camp of the west face, the buttom part starts and then we continue the climbing through the hanging ice fall at the height of 6100m to the right side of the ice fall. The second part broadens from the plateau above the ice fall along the 35 to 45 elevation. The next section consists of ice rock walls in the 50 to 55 degree steep and that extends in the height of 7400m’ height. The final section begins with the 70 to 75 degree elevation rock pillar. The pillar leads the west ridge at the height of 8000m and up to the top of the summit.
We fix the typical ropes from 5800m to 6100m and from 6500m to 7500m. You see the camp established by the Russian expedition in the following location.
The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has been seldom attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7,600m in the area of the Seignior Wall.
The first US team to summit was in 1980, they summit via this West Pillar Route . The team was made up of Jim States , John Roskelley, Kim Momb and Chris Kopczynski. They summit 2 members of the team and put 2 members within 150 feet. They summit without the use of oxygen or Sherpa support.
Highlight sights of Makalu Expedition:
Everest 8848m, Lhotse 8516m, Makalu I 8463m, Makalu II 7660m, Peak 38- 7591m, Pumori, Lhotse Shar 8410m, Barunste 7145m, Chamlan 7319m, Kanchanjung 8586m, Jannu Himal 7710m & More attractive snow caped peaks etc.
Facts of Makalu Expedition
| Country | Nepal |
| Destinatin: | Makalu Expedition |
| Expedition Starts in: | Tumlingtar |
| Expedition Ends in: | Tumlingtar |
| Expedition Duration: | 60 Days |
| Activities: | Tours & Sightseeing, Trekking & Rock Climbing, Expedition |
| Culture: | Different Community with majority of Gurung, Sherpa, Tamang, Chhetri, Brahamn. |
| Transportation: | Private vehicle as per itinerary | Kathmandu - Tumlingtar - Kathmandu by plane |
| Accommodation: | 4 Nights in Kathmandu, 33 Nights Expedition tent, 22 Nights Camping |
| Max. Altitude: | 8463m (Makalu) |
| Best season in Nepal: | Mar, Apr, May, Sep, Oct & Nov |
| Mode of Trekking: | Camping |
| Group Size: | Min 02 PAX, Max 12 PAX |
Map of Makalu Expedition
Itinerary for Makalu Expedition
| Days | Day to Day Activities |
|---|---|
| 01 | Arrive in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel |
| 02 | Kathmandu Valley Sightseeing |
| 03 | Kathmandu to Tumlingtar over Overnight in lodge |
| 04 | Tumlingtar to Manybhanjyang (1100m) 5:30hrs over night Camp |
| 05 | Manybhanjyang to Chichila (1700m) 6 hrs overnight Camp |
| 06 | Chichila to Num (1600m) 7 hrs overnight in Camp |
| 07 | Num to Seduwa (1560m) 7 hrs overnight in Camp |
| 08 | Seduwa to Tashi Gaun 4 hrs Overnight in Camp |
| 09 | Rest day for acclimatization. Overnight in Camp |
| 10 | Tashi Gaun to khongba-La (3760m) 6 to 7 hrs overnight in Camp |
| 11 | Khongba-La to Dobato (3700m) 6 to 7 hrs overnight in Camp |
| 12 | Dobato to Nebe Kharka (4320m) 7 hrs overnight in Camp |
| 13 | Nebe Kharka to Sherson (4630m) 7 hrs Overnight in Camp |
| 14 | Sherson to Makalu base camp 6 to 7 hrs Overnight in Camp |
| 15 | Makalu base camp to higher camp 2 hrs Overnight in Camp |
| 19-49 | Climbing Period Mt. Makalu (8463m) |
| 50 | Cleaning up Base Camp overnight Camp |
| 51 | higher camp to Yak Kharka overnight Camp |
| 52 | Yak Kharka to Mumbuk overnight Camp |
| 53 | Mumbuk.to Tashi Goan overnight Camp |
| 54 | Tashi Goan to Num overnight Camp |
| 55 | Num to Chichira |
| 56 | Chichila to Tumlingtar overnight Lodge |
| 57 | Tumlingtar over night |
| 58 | Flight from Tumlingtar to Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel |
| 59 | Rest day in Kathmandu and farewell Diner |
| 60 | Transfer to International Airport and fly home |
Makalu Expedition Service Includes
- 5 Nights accomodation in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast (4 star) (Click for Hotel)
- Permit fee of Amadablam Expedition
- Food for Trekking and Expedition period for Amadablam
- Staff: Base camp Guide , Cook, Cook helper
- Porters or Yak porter Tumlingtar to Base camp & Base camp to Tumlingtar
- Kathmandu -Tumlingtar - Kathmandu flights with Cargo 50 KG Per member
- Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
- Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
- 1 tent for 1 person for Expedition north face brand
- Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition
- Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
- Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator
- Satellite phone (Pay calls)
- Fare Well dinner
Makalu Expedition Service Excludes
- PERSONAL equipment for climbing & trekking.
- Personal & medical Insurance of expedition.
- Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp.
- Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu.
- Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed.
- Walki Takie permit & Satellite phone permit.
- Oxygen & Mask -regulator.
- Personal expenses.
- Bar Bills & beverage.
- Garbage Deposit USD 2000.00 (Sharing of the total person) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don't take back their garbage Namche Bazaar and Kathmandu.
- Guided sightseeing around Kathmandu Valley with all applicable entrance fees as per our itinerary. (Click for tour in Kathamndu)
Advice for tipping and bonus for Sherpa
- USD 80-140 for general non-Sherpa crew and he/she must stay at base camp
- USD 110-220for Sherpa who accompany you up to the base camp
- USD 400-700 for Sherpa who accompany you up to the top of the summit
Single Supplementary US$ 400 per person (Includes single hotel room in Kathmandu , single room/tent on trek, single tent at Base Camp)
Makalu Expedition Royalty
Classification of Himalaya : Other peaks above 8000m (Except Everest)
| Expedition Permit Fee | Spring Season | Autumn season |
|---|---|---|
| One climber | 5,000 | 2,500 |
| Two climbers | 6,000 | 3,000 |
| Three climbers | 7,000 | 3,500 |
| Four climbers | 8,000 | 4,000 |
| Five climbers | 8,500 | 4,250 |
| Six climbers | 9,000 | 4,500 |
| Seven climbers | 10,000 | 5,000 |
| Each additional up to 15 | 1,500 | 1,000 |
Client Testimonials
Namadste!
While doing trek in the khumbu region, we will witness the different views of mountains such as Kwangde, Thamserku, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, the "horse saddle" of Kanteiga and of course the summit of Everest itself. We take a short rest for a while and it allows us little time for acclimatization. Here, you prepare yourself to explore the ascent of kalapatthar which is an altitude of 5545m. While climbing down from Lobuche, you will see some glacial moraine until the peak comes into view. Finally, you will be witnessing the north face of Mt. Everest . We return through a different route through Panboche to Lukla. We catch a flight for Kathmandu from Lukla.
micke, USA
