Nepal Gov. Reg. No.: 52988/064/065

Makalu Expedition

Makalu ExpeditionMakalu is the world’s fifth highest peak. Its height is 27,765 feet from the sea level. This beautiful mountain lies in the 14 miles east of Everest in the Khumbu region. The size of this splendid mountain is gorgeous and its pyramid-like structure with sharp four ridges has made it more spectacular. This peak is indeed a double peak. The subsidiary peak stands just north of the main summit which is linked by a saddle named Chomolonzo. The ridge of the summit has drawn the demarcation line indicating the boarder between Nepal and Tibet.

The name of this mountain is probably taken from a Sanskrit word Maha-kala which means a Shiva, one of the god of Hindu religion. Shiva is some times an evil, cruel destroyer and other times he is apt to be gentle and kind hearted. This mountain is also called Kumba Karna in a local dialect. It means the giant in fact.

Before its first ascent in 1955, several expedition teams studied and admired this peak. Nevertheless, it was not attempted until the first ascend of Mt. Everest in 1954. Other giant peaks in the Khumbu region were also not attempted till that time.

Makalu West Face
For climbing, this route is said to be very dangerous and risky. Five attempts were made before the successful climbing of this mountain. In fact, they succeed in the 5th attempt.

The Russian team led by Sergey Efimov climbed this summit successful first time in 1997. They climbed it through west face. They had climbed this peak through the most difficult route. The ending part of the route goes towards Parago ridge. Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline climbed Mt. Makalu and thus they were rewarded by the award “Gold ice axe.”

The routes are of 4 parts:
From the base camp of the west face, the buttom part starts and then we continue the climbing through the hanging ice fall at the height of 6100m to the right side of the ice fall. The second part broadens from the plateau above the ice fall along the 35 to 45 elevation. The next section consists of ice rock walls in the 50 to 55 degree steep and that extends in the height of 7400m’ height. The final section begins with the 70 to 75 degree elevation rock pillar. The pillar leads the west ridge at the height of 8000m and up to the top of the summit.

We fix the typical ropes from 5800m to 6100m and from 6500m to 7500m. You see the camp established by the Russian expedition in the following location.

The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has been seldom attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7,600m in the area of the Seignior Wall.

The first US team to summit was in 1980, they summit via this West Pillar Route . The team was made up of Jim States , John Roskelley, Kim Momb and Chris Kopczynski. They summit 2 members of the team and put 2 members within 150 feet. They summit without the use of oxygen or Sherpa support.

Highlight sights of Makalu Expedition:

Everest 8848m, Lhotse 8516m, Makalu I 8463m, Makalu II 7660m, Peak 38- 7591m, Pumori, Lhotse Shar 8410m, Barunste 7145m, Chamlan 7319m, Kanchanjung 8586m, Jannu Himal 7710m & More attractive snow caped peaks etc.

Facts of Makalu Expedition

Country Nepal
Destinatin: Makalu Expedition
Expedition Starts in: Tumlingtar
Expedition Ends in: Tumlingtar
Expedition Duration: 60 Days
Activities: Tours & Sightseeing, Trekking & Rock Climbing, Expedition
Culture: Different Community with majority of Gurung, Sherpa, Tamang, Chhetri, Brahamn.
Transportation: Private vehicle as per itinerary | Kathmandu - Tumlingtar - Kathmandu by plane
Accommodation: 4 Nights in Kathmandu, 33 Nights Expedition tent, 22 Nights Camping
Max. Altitude: 8463m (Makalu)
Best season in Nepal: Mar, Apr, May, Sep, Oct & Nov
Mode of Trekking: Camping
Group Size: Min 02 PAX, Max 12 PAX

Itinerary for Makalu Expedition

Days Day to Day Activities
01 Arrive in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel
02 Kathmandu Valley Sightseeing
03 Kathmandu to Tumlingtar over Overnight in lodge
04 Tumlingtar to Manybhanjyang (1100m) 5:30hrs over night Camp
05 Manybhanjyang to Chichila (1700m) 6 hrs overnight Camp
06 Chichila to Num (1600m) 7 hrs overnight in Camp
07 Num to Seduwa (1560m) 7 hrs overnight in Camp
08 Seduwa to Tashi Gaun 4 hrs Overnight in Camp
09 Rest day for acclimatization. Overnight in Camp
10 Tashi Gaun to khongba-La (3760m) 6 to 7 hrs overnight in Camp
11 Khongba-La to Dobato (3700m) 6 to 7 hrs overnight in Camp
12 Dobato to Nebe Kharka (4320m) 7 hrs overnight in Camp
13 Nebe Kharka to Sherson (4630m) 7 hrs Overnight in Camp
14 Sherson to Makalu base camp 6 to 7 hrs Overnight in Camp
15 Makalu base camp to higher camp 2 hrs Overnight in Camp
19-49 Climbing Period Mt. Makalu (8463m)
50 Cleaning up Base Camp overnight Camp
51 higher camp to Yak Kharka overnight Camp
52 Yak Kharka to Mumbuk overnight Camp
53 Tashi Goan overnight Camp
54 Tashi Goan to Num overnight Camp
55 Num to Chichira
56 Chichila to Tumlingtar overnight Lodge
57 Tumlingtar over night
58 Flight from Tumlingtar to Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel
59 Rest day in Kathmandu and farewell Diner
60 Transfer to International Airport and fly home

Makalu Expedition Service Includes

  1. 5 Nights accomodation in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast (4 star) (Click for Hotel)
  2. Permit fee of Amadablam Expedition
  3. Food for Trekking and Expedition period for Amadablam
  4. Staff: Base camp Guide , Cook, Cook helper
  5. Porters or Yak porter Tumlingtar to Base camp & Base camp to Tumlingtar
  6. Kathmandu -Tumlingtar - Kathmandu flights with Cargo 50 KG Per member
  7. Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
  8. Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
  9. 1 tent for 1 person for Expedition north face brand
  10. Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition
  11. Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
  12. Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator
  13. Satellite phone (Pay calls)
  14. Fare Well dinner

Makalu Expedition Service Excludes

  1. PERSONAL equipment for climbing & trekking.
  2. Personal & medical Insurance of expedition.
  3. Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp.
  4. Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu.
  5. Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed.
  6. Walki Takie permit & Satellite phone permit.
  7. Oxygen & Mask -regulator.
  8. Personal expenses.
  9. Bar Bills & beverage.
  10. Garbage Deposit USD 2000.00 (Sharing of the total person) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don't take back their garbage Namche Bazaar and Kathmandu.
  11. Guided sightseeing around Kathmandu Valley with all applicable entrance fees as per our itinerary. (Click for tour in Kathamndu)

Advice for tipping and bonus for Sherpa

  • USD 80-140 for general non-Sherpa crew and he/she must stay at base camp
  • USD 110-220for Sherpa who accompany you up to the base camp
  • USD 400-700 for Sherpa who accompany you up to the top of the summit

Single Supplementary US$ 400 per person (Includes single hotel room in Kathmandu , single room/tent on trek, single tent at Base Camp)

Makalu Expedition Royalty

Classification of Himalaya : Other peaks above 8000m (Except Everest)

Expedition Permit Fee Spring Season Autumn season
One climber 5,000 2,500
Two climbers 6,000 3,000
Three climbers 7,000 3,500
Four climbers 8,000 4,000
Five climbers 8,500 4,250
Six climbers 9,000 4,500
Seven climbers 10,000 5,000
Each additional up to 15 1,500 1,000

Client Testimonials

While doing trek in the khumbu region, we will witness the different views of mountains such as Kwangde, Thamserku, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, the "horse saddle" of Kanteiga and of course the summit of Everest itself. We take a short rest for a while and it allows us little time for acclimatization. Here, you prepare yourself to explore the ascent of kalapatthar which is an altitude of 5545m. While climbing down from Lobuche, you will see some glacial moraine until the peak comes into view. Finally, you will be witnessing the north face of Mt. Everest . We return through a different route through Panboche to Lukla. We catch a flight for Kathmandu from Lukla.
micke, USA

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