Annapurna Foot Hills Treks and Expedition
Nepal Gov. Reg. No.: 52988/064/065
977-9841579429

Island Peak Climbing - 25 Days

Island Peak ClimbingOur Island Peak trip is a special trek which combines an ascent of Island Peak with a visit to the famous lakes of the Gokyo valley. We start from Lukla and trek slowly up the Dudh Kosi valley. After a few days we branch off to Gokyo, and after climbing Gokyo Ri for fantastic views of Cho Oyu and Everest we cross the Cho La and Mt Everest base Camp descend to Dingboche to prepare for the ascent of Island Peak.

This Trip is special focus for mountaineers who have not climbed any mountain above 6000m. it is very important to follow Itinerary of Gokyo Chola pass, Kala pattar and island Peak, we are sure, if you reach three height peaks, such Gokyo Peak 5321m, Chola pass 5350m and kala pattar 5545m, before seeing Island Peak. It has already completed acclimatization to climb island Peak.

Island Peak which is also known as Imja Tse peak is one of the most famous trekking peak in Nepal. This peak is seen as an Island in the deep of ice from the Dingbuche. The island peak is quite attractive with hugely glaciated west face rising from the Lhotse glacier. The peak itself is the expansion of the south ridge of Lhotse Shar separated by small cool. The ridge rising to the south from this point leads to the summit of Island peak. The extension part descent south west is the part of the normal route of the ascent and it leads to the south summit.

Island peak doesn’t only provide exciting climb but also some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. The giant mountains such as Lhotse (8,501m), Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) are clearly visible from the summit. The views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Amadablam and Baruntse in the south add more charm for climbing Island Peak.

Southeast Flank & South-West Ridge of Island Peak

The island base camp is located at Pareshaya Gyab n between Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of Imja glacier. This place is more famous for avalanche in the event of heavy snowfall. In a good condition, a well acclimatized party can make the summit and can return to the base camp in a day. Nevertheless, most of the climbers prefer to establish a high camp which is important for safe ascent. The route skirts south east around and base camp of Island and climb steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble up on open gully which leads between two ridges to the site of the high camp on the left-hand ridge below and to the right of the small hanging glacier. The left hand ridge scrambles across the broad open gully. After crossing a gully, a step snow and ice cramp leads upward to the summit ridge. It is little difficult to climb near the summit due to steep climbing. The snow slopes below the summit has developed some large crevasses making the final ascent to the top difficult in recent times.

North Ridge Route of Island Peak

Alf Gregory, Dick Cook and two Sherpas made the first ascent in 1958. North of the main summit the ridge continues to a col (5700). From the col, the route climbs the ridge which is reached by the following the true right bank of Imja glacier and then the moraines on the right bank of the Lhotse Sar glacier. The camp was placed on the col in the first ascent. Then from the col follow the ridge which is glorious snow area. This is the long ridge that would be difficult under soft snow condition and in other conditions; it may have a marked cornice. This climb is obviouslt little bit difficult than the other normal climbs.

Why Sherpas climber guide? Annapurna Foothills Treks always puts safety in high priority. Our guides are experienced climber and mountaineering license holder.

If the climbing trek is headed by a climbing guide, we use harness and ropes below the every peak whether for crevasse danger or steep slopes. Nepali guides help you to fix the rope. However, we also teach the climbers how to fix the rope for glacier travel or to set up a belay using climbing rope. The guide will do it for demonstration only.

You should acknowledge your personal limits while climbing without guide. After all, this is a Himalayan region, and peaks are straightforward. To be safe, you don’t need shop’s worth of Karabiners, ice-screw, snow stakes and rock racks- just a partner, rope, few bits of protection, experience using this gear, good weather and overriding urge to die of senility.

The routes mentioned below cover the least difficult way up some of the main trekking peaks in the region. Under good condition, none of the routes are challenging for skillful technical alpinist. Safety-conscious amateur have potential to provide satisfaction and experience without more danger. Ask the trekking company if all staffs are insured for their appropriate roles. Many cut corners here.

Sherpa Staffs: The trek will be supported by the experienced team of Sherpa. We are working with the team for many years. And the relationship we developed among us for so many years makes wonderful exchange of ideas, laughter and assistance. The majority of our gear will be moved by porters and Yaks, particularly in Island and Kala pattar portion. Your personal packs will also be carried by the porters and Yaks. This will give you enough time to fully enjoy the surrounding environment.

Logistics: We have chosen the Island peak as a part of the expedition because of the sheer beauty and location of the peak in the Buddhist influence region. You will fully enjoy the world of mountains and we hope that your travel will be unfettered by the rigors of food preparation, lodging and logistics. Nevertheless, Annapurna Foothills treks offers most comprehensive program available, utilizing a distinguished staff of Sherpa, huge 4 season tents and a diverse assortment of quality meals. (Most of the food is flown in from the Kathmandu. Although the local food is a part of our diet, we find a wide variety of food helps keep climbers and trekkers, healthy and strong.)

Highlight sights of Island Peak Climbing:

Everest 8848m., Lhotse 8516m., Nuptse 7896m, Pumori 7145m., Amadablam 6812m. Thamserku 6800m, Khumbila 5751m, Kwangde Ri 6187m, Kangtenga 6645m, Kusum Kangru 6369, Makalu 8463m, Island Peak 6189m, Chhukungri 5845m, Lobuche East 6119m, Lobuche West 6145m, khumbuste 6640m, Cholatse 6640m, Cha Kung 7020m, & More attractive snowcapped peaks.

Facts of Island Peak Climbing

Country Nepal
Destinatin: Island Peak Climbing
Peak Climbing Starts in: Lukla
Peak Climbing Ends in: Lukla
Peak Climbing Duration: 25 Days
Activities: Tours & Sightseeing, Trekking & Walking, Peak Climbing
Culture: Different Community with majority of Sherpa, Tamang, Chhetri, Brahamn & Tibetan.
Transportation: Private vehicle as per itinerary | Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu by plane
Accommodation: 4 Nights in Kathmandu, 3 Nights tent Island peak base camp, 17 Nights in trekking lodge/ camping.
Trekking grade: Alpine
Max. Altitude: 6168m (Island Peak)
Best season in Nepal: Mar, Apr, May, Sep, Oct & Nov
Mode of Trekking: Lodge/ Camping
Group Size: Min 02 PAX, Max 12 PAX
Cost starts: US$ 1515 - US$ 2165 per person

Detail Itinerary for Island Peak Climbing

Days Day to Day Activities
01 Arrival in Kathmandu
Flying to Kathmandu along the northern border of Nepal on a clear day is in itself an exciting and memorable experience. As you fly, the panoramic view of snow-capped Annapurna mountain range greets your sight. After the completion of Visa formalities, you have to come downstairs to collect Luggage and proceed to outside from terminal Building. Please look at your Printed Name and Our Company Signboard Annapurna Foothills Treks & Exp and follow them. Meet our representative and then you will be transferred to hotel. You will be served free welcome drinks, tea or coffee or juice at the time of check in.
The Managing Director or The Manager of company will meet you in hotel and will brief about the trip. You should clear your dues before we proceed for the trip. You are free to relax or explore around the city in the very first day. Overnight stay at Hotel.
02 Tour in Kathmandu
After the breakfast in the morning, our city guide will come to the hotel with vehicles and then we leave hotel to visit Kathmandu Darbar Square , the house of living Goddess Kumari, the ferocious Kal Bhairab, The Red Monkey God and hundreds of erotic carvings. Swayambhunath is the worlds most glorious Buddhist Chaityas.It is said to be 2000 years old.
Boudhanath is a huge Buddhist stupa located about 7 km east of Thamel. It stands on a massive mandala style platform and has features similar to the Swayambhunath, though it is bigger than Swayambhunath in size. It is said that this stupa was built during the 5th Century. Every year, Thousands of pilgrims from Nepal and neighboring countries visit Boudhanath, particularly in winter and Pashupatinath temple. Pashupatinath temple is one of the biggest Hindu temple. Overnight stay at Hotel.
03 Fly Kathmandu – Lukla and trek to Phakdingma ( 2850m)
Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla where the trek starts. Initially the trail descends steadily along the banks of the Dudh Koshi River , passing Sherpa villages and Mani stones before reaching Phakding.we stay overnight stay at guesthouse. guesthouse with breakfast, lunch and dinner included with Tea and Coffee.
04 Phakding to Namche Bazaar: (3,440m)
The trail ascends gradually towards Jorsalle, crossing suspension bridges over the Dudhkoshi River before arriving at the entrance gate of the national park. After crossing three more bridges, the trail ascends through the alpine and rhododendron forest. Here it is possible to see deer and wild birds on the way before the trail ends at Namche Bazaar. Overnight stay at guesthouse with breakfast, lunch and dinner included with Tea and Coffee.
05 Rest day in Namche
Namche is tucked away between two ridges amidst the giant peaks of the Khumbu and has an abundance of lodges, tea shops and souvenir shops. It is an ideal place to spend a day, acclimatizing to the new altitude before heading off towards Tengboche. To acclimatize, you visit Khunde Hospital set-up by Sir Edmund Hillary, or take a one hour walk up to the Everest View Hotel above Namche for the sunset view of Ama Dablam, Nuptse, Lhotse and Everest. There are also good views from the National Park Centre and Museum just above the town. Overnight stay at guesthouse with breakfast, lunch and dinner included with Tea and Coffee.
06 Namche-Bazar to Khumjung, (3790m)
To acclimatize smoothly, we just make a two hours walk to Khumjung, after a visit to the Sherpa culture + Everest conquest museum of Namche Bazaar . Khumjung is a very old Sherpa village, with two monasteries, where Sir Edmund Hillary, first climber of Mount Everest in 1953 with Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, created a school and a hospital (Kunde). Afternoon is the time for rest at camp or lodge . Overnight stay at guesthouse with breakfast, lunch and dinner included with Tea and Coffee.
07 Khumjung to Dole ( 4200m)
Facing us, Ama Dablam, 22,499 feet, one of the most beautiful peaks of the world, with Matter horn and Alpamayo (South America). Our footpath goes through the slopes climbing to Khumbila, and reaches our first pass, Mon La, 13,035 feet. Steep descends to Phortse Drangka. We leave the valley going to Everest trail; we are now in Gokyo valley. Just at the limit of the tree-line, we reach the mountain pasture of Dole, Overnight stay at guesthouse with breakfast, lunch and dinner included with Tea and Coffee.
08 Dole to Machermo, (4470 meters)
The footpath goes through small yak mountain pastures: Khele, Lhabarma, Luza. View on many small waterfalls. We take rest in the Camp at Machermo, facing Kyajo glacier. Overnight stay at guesthouse with breakfast, lunch and dinner included with Tea and Coffee.
09 Machhermo to Gokyo: (4790m)
Beyond Machhermo the trail climbs a ridge for an excellent view both down the valley to Kantega and up towards Cho-Oyu (8153m). Beyond the ridge the valley widens as the trail passes through Pangram at 4390m. We descend to the river bank before beginning the climb up to the terminal moraine of the Ngozumpa glacier. It is a steep climb on the moraine. Afterwards, the trail levels out as it follows the valley past a second lake, known as Longponga at 4690m, then finally up a boulder-strewn path to Gokyo at 4,750m Overnight stay at guesthouse with breakfast, lunch and dinner included with Tea and Coffee.
10 Rest day at Gokyo
Leaving the camp at dawn, we will easily and slowly climb the path going up to Gokyo Peak , higher than Mont-Blanc. From the top, fantastic view on the immense Ngozumba glacier, and on 123 different peaks, including Mount Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Makalu . We go back to the camp in the evening for rest. Overnight stay at guesthouse with breakfast, lunch and dinner included with Tea and Coffee.
11 Gokyo Lakes to Tangna, (4700m)
After a short descent to Longpongo lake, all our caravan go through the glacier of Ngozumpa, on the moraines which hide the ice. We will discover very nice small glaciar lakes. We take Lunch on the other bank of the glacier Overnight stay at guesthouse with breakfast, lunch and dinner included with Tea and Coffee.
12 Tangna- Chola Pass-Dzongla: (5420m):
A wild stage, beginning by one hour and a half on the steep snowy footpath leading to Cho La pass. From the pass, superb view on Dzonglha valley and lake and on the impressive North faces of Jobo Lhaptshan, 21,128 feet. We Descent to Dzonglha, with a quite hard walk on the Cho La glacier. We take rest at camp in the evening Overnight stay at guesthouse with breakfast, lunch and dinner included with Tea and Coffee.
13 Dzongla to Lobuche: (4910m)
Continue along the moraine of the glacier, with views of Kalapathar and Pumori, before reaching Lobuche at (4910m) for your evening stay. This is the last stop before the climb to the base camp the next day. It is important to take the time to rest and acclimatize for this unforgettable day. Overnight stay at guesthouse with breakfast, lunch and dinner included with Tea and Coffee.
14 Lobuche to Kalapathar and Gorakshep: (5140m)
To reach our next stop, Kala Pattar, we follow the Khumbu Glacier. The trail offers superb views of the surrounding mountains, especially where the path is forced to rise to cross a tributary glacier. We stop for lunch at our camping place or lodge at Gorak Shep. Overnight stay at guesthouse with breakfast, lunch and dinner included with Tea and Coffee.
15 Gorakshep to Everest Base Camp - Dingbuche
Everest Base Camp is the main camp for mountaineers attempting the mountain, situated at an elevation of 5252m. Trekkers feel understandably great satisfaction in reaching here as the Everest Base Camp is not only full of history but breathtakingly dramatic. Overnight stay at guesthouse with breakfast, lunch and dinner included with Tea and Coffee.
16 Dingbuche to Chhukung [4750m]
Today, we have an easy walk for about 2 hours, climbing up gradually to the small settlement of Chukhung. Along the way we have great views of Island Peak and the challenge that awaits us.
17 Chhukung to Island Peak Base camp: (5,200m)
From Chhukung, the path leads steep, climbing south and the turn east line of the valley. Then the trail twists below the southern flank of the moraine from the Lhotse glacier. We continue short yet pleasant walking along the river side and leads to a Big-rock. On the south of this rock, the Amphu Lapcha route lies. The criss cross route through Imja and Lhotse glacier leads to a wide valley. It flanks the south west side of the Island peak. We stay overnight at Island peak base camp. We set up a tent at base camp and you will be served meals there.
18 Base Camp to High Camp (5600m)
We head towards the Island peak high camp. Then we start climbing the mountain. The path then goes beyond the base camp before we strike off left up the steep hillside. At the beginning, the path is sandy but soon it turns into lush before becoming boulder strewn. The slope contracted as you climb up the hill. Then the path enters a steep rock channel. We stay overnight at in Island peak high camp. You will be provided meals in the tent.
19 High camp to summit to Base camp to Chhukung:
We have to climb the rock culvert from early in the morning. Although it is not difficult, there are many short rock steps to be crossed before you come across the right side of the culvert. Then the trail leads to the ridgeline and it ultimately leads to traverse on to the snout of the summit glacier. You will need to rope up for the glacier as it contains several crevasses but it leads without difficulty, to a 100m(330ft) snow and ice slope (40-45°) on which the guides will fix a rope. From the top of this slope, 3 rope lengths along a sharp summit ridge lead to the top. After enjoying the summit views you will descend all the way to Chhukung. We stay overnight at guest house in Chhukung. You will be provided three meals a day there.
20 Chhukung to Tengboche 3,870m
Gradually, we trek down to Dingboche and the trek continues down the Pangboche. We trek same trail back which was used top trek up. The trek then comes down to the river. After crossing the river, we walk for an hour up through the forest and reach at Tenboche. We stay overnight at lodge there.
21 Tengboche to Namche [3450..
From Tengboche we descend to the bridge over the Dudh Kosi at Phunki Tenga, where there are water driven prayer wheels, before making our way back to Namche. We stay overnight at guesthouse.
22 Namche to Lukla
we go Down along the gorge of the Dudh Kosi to the small mountain airstrip at Lukla to catch your return flight to Kathmandu. Weather permitting your trekking crew might prepare a farewell treat for you. You would be expected to join in the singing and the dancing! Overnight stay at Camp or Lodge at Lukla.
23 Lukla – Kathmandu
Relax day in kathamndu.
24 Sight seeing in kathmandu
After breakfast, our city guide reaches in Hotel with Vehicles, and then we drive to Bhaktapur Durbar Square. Bhaktapur is one of the oldest cities in Kathmandu valley. It is well known as Living Museum. Old brick paved enclave of old Royal palace, Nyathapola Temple, Datatriya temple, exquisite artwork offers a picture of the grandeur of medieval Nepal. And Patan is located 7 km away from Kathmandu, this city has many 15th to 17th century, Hindu and Buddhist, monuments built during the Malla dynasty. The most important area with many monuments is the Patan Durbar Square. Overnight stay at Hotel.
25 Kathmandu – departure
Transfer to international airport for your final departure. The trip ends, our Airport Representative will drop you to the Tribhuvan International Airport for your flight departure from Nepal

Note:
Unforeseen Cost such as Flight Cancellation or Delayed, Sick in Trek, and Helicopter rescue in Trek, Cost due to bad weather etc which is out of our control.

IMPORTANT NOTE:
The safety and security of clients is a matter of great importance for us. All of our trips are led by qualified professional government license holder guides and they have received adequate training from the government of Nepal. We always carry first aid kits in our trip. Out duty is to work hard for you safety and comfort, no matter where we go. Therefore, we work very honestly to provide you the Himalayan experience that suits your needs. Please feel free to put forward your queries for making your trip more significant and memorable.

Cost of Island Peak Climbing

Group Size 1 pax 2-4 pax 5-8 pax 9-12 pax
USD (US$) per person Inquiry 2165 1730 1515

Island Peak Climbing Service Includes

  1. Transportations from Airport – Hotel – Airport Car, Van, Heice and Coaster
  2. Welcome dinner with Live Nepalese Cultural Program
  3. Equipment: Trekking tents, Dining tent, Kitchen Tent, Toilet Tent, Table and chairs, Mattresses during the trekking & Peak climbing period
  4. Accommodation in lodge trek 14 days (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea coffee and Bed) 4 days camping Trek meals (Breakfast, lunch, dinner) Tea coffee and seasonal fruits
  5. English Speaking experienced Sherpa, Govt. Trained/Licensed Holder guide
  6. Equipment Fees for climbing guide
  7. Climbing Rope, Ice screws, Snow bars
  8. Staff: 1 Guide, 1 Cook, 1 Kitchen, 1 climbing guide & necessary porters
  9. Climbing peak permit/s & other necessary fees
  10. Personal insurance for Nepalese staffs
  11. Our service charge
  12. One Sherpa,(guide assistance) group size more than 4
  13. Sagarmath National park fee, TIMS permits & Any required permits or Official Documentation
  14. Around Trip Airfare Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathamndu
  15. Local Transportations Hotel - Airport – Hotel Car, Van, Heice and Tourist bus for pick up / drop
  16. Local Airport Tax

Island Peak Climbing Service Excludes

  1. Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu can be managed upon your request (Click for Hotel)
  2. Sightseeing tours in Kathmandu can be arranged upon your request (Click for tour in Kathamndu)
  3. Personal Insurance for travel to Nepal
  4. Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
  5. Emergency Rescue evacuation
  6. Trekking Sleeping bag
  7. Personal expenses
  8. Tipping (Tips)
  9. Bar bills & beverage

Suggested Climbing gears:

  • Climbing boots, Crampons
  • Ice axe, Harness
  • Karabiners,
  • Tapes/slings,
  • Rock pegs, Helmet (crash hat)
  • Warm climbing trousers, Long cotton hiking shirts
  • Waterproof climbing jacket, Gaiters,
  • Sun hat, Light cotton athletic socks and wool,
  • climbing socks, Long sleeved cotton/woolen shirts,
  • T-shirts, Wool long underwear
  • Down high altitude, Sleeping bag
  • Down jacket/ trousers/vest, Climbing sunglasses
  • Sunscreen, Lip salve
  • Lightweight fleece, Fleece/wool for climbing
  • Head torch /batteries/bulbs, Lightweight thermal/ insulated ski gloves

Equipments are available in Kathmandu on sale and parts of this equipment can be rented too.

Client Testimonials

Namadste!
While doing trek in the khumbu region, we will witness the different views of mountains such as Kwangde, Thamserku, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, the "horse saddle" of Kanteiga and of course the summit of Everest itself. We take a short rest for a while and it allows us little time for acclimatization. Here, you prepare yourself to explore the ascent of kalapatthar which is an altitude of 5545m. While climbing down from Lobuche, you will see some glacial moraine until the peak comes into view. Finally, you will be witnessing the north face of Mt. Everest . We return through a different route through Panboche to Lukla. We catch a flight for Kathmandu from Lukla.
micke, USA

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